Kashmir is compact but slow. Distances look trivial on a map and take twice as long as you expect, because mountain roads, army convoys and weather all have a vote. Planning around that is most of the work.
How long you need
Five days is the realistic minimum for a first visit: two in Srinagar, one in Gulmarg or Sonamarg, and two in Pahalgam. Seven to eight days lets you add Gurez or a short trek without rushing. Three days is enough only if you stay in Srinagar and accept that you are seeing one city and one lake.
A route that works
Fly into Srinagar and spend the first day acclimatising gently — the old city, a shikara at dusk, the Mughal gardens if the season suits. Take a day trip to Gulmarg for the gondola. Move to Pahalgam for two nights and use it as a base for the Betaab and Aru valleys. Return to Srinagar for the final night so you are not gambling on road conditions before a flight.
When to go
April and May bring blossom, meltwater and moderate crowds. June to August is warmest and busiest, and it is also when the high treks open. September and October are, for many people, the best compromise: clear air, autumn chinars, thinning crowds. December to February is snow season, beautiful and genuinely cold, with some higher roads closed.
Budgeting
Costs vary enormously by season and by how you book. Peak-season accommodation in Srinagar and Gulmarg roughly doubles. The single biggest saving is booking transport for the whole trip with one driver rather than arranging each leg separately, which also removes daily negotiation. Agree every price before the service, not after — this is normal here and not considered rude.
Mistakes that cost people time
Underestimating drive times is the main one; Srinagar to Pahalgam is a half-day, not an hour. Booking the gondola day as your only Gulmarg day is the second, because wind closes the upper stage regularly. Assuming card payment works everywhere is the third — carry cash, especially outside Srinagar. And leaving the airport transfer to the last morning without buffer is how people miss flights, since security checks at Srinagar airport are unusually thorough and slow.
Practical notes
Mobile connectivity is inconsistent outside the main towns; prepaid SIMs issued elsewhere in India may not work in the region, so plan for gaps. Dress modestly, particularly in the old city and at religious sites. Check current advisories before travelling, and take a driver's or host's advice about a given day seriously — local judgement about conditions is better than any forecast.
